I will spend July in Egypt and –somehow– I hadn’t realized that Ramadan will start while I’m there. It seems strange because for years I KNEW when Ramadan was going to be.
The day I arrived in Morocco –October 2006– it was Ramadan. I had been traveling for more than a day since –in the best ME tradition– I didn’t want to “just” get there by plane, but wished to take the train and enjoy the trip. This meant leaving Barcelona at night, changing trains in Andalusia at dawn, arriving in Algeciras at noon and taking the ferry to Tangiers. I disembarked in the harbor –pretty hungry, btw– dragging my backpack short before dusk. Of course I didn’t know much about ftor, but a Portuguese guy I met at the boat invited me to join him for dinner and there I was… eating my first harira with dates and schbaquia. I was staying in the youth hostel and went to bed soon, since I had to wake up early in the morning to continue my trip (by train again) in order to reach my destination in a small city close to Rabat. But something happened: I fear I should have not drunk orange juice AND milk before going to sleep 😦
I still remember the funny stomach (no breakfast in it, although I nibbled at some rests of shbaquia half-wrapped. half-hidden under the big scarf I use as a blanket when I travel) and the 5-hour train journey… then still a taxi ride, some walking (still no rest) until I arrived in the afternoon as the wasted version of myself… pretty sad image.
But as traumatic as this story may sound, there are a lot of things I like about Ramadan. After that day I spent three whole Ramadans in Morocco, countless ftors with friends-that-were-like-family, regular friends, and acquaintances who invited me to break the fast with them. I remember how we sat at the table waiting for the muezzin to sing (in fact, I was the only expectant, the other were quite relaxed about it), and how I felt guilty when they urged me to eat, because I didn’t fast. While some of my expat friends did, I never tried. As a non-Muslim, I always felt that fasting was a religious practice and as such only believers should do it. I, for my part, used to eat less during Ramadan (I had nuts and raisins hidden under my desk) and only when I was alone in the office, but I could not imagine not drinking water.
Now in retrospect, I dearly remember many many moments of all the Ramadans I spent there. One year my friend Fatima and I used to drive every few days to Assilah short before dusk to have ftor there. The reason behind was not the good harira but my need to train my driving skills and the availability of empty roads (except for the couple latecomers rushing home) at that time.
Hmmm, nice, distant memories… And funny how all these souvenirs got buried under the accumulation of fresh daily events, only to be now swiftly digged up, pulled out by a simple thought.